Rediscovering Strath Nethy

My camp in Strath Nethy

There is a danger in thinking you know a place, especially when what you think you know is negative so you have no interest in returning there. I’ve just discovered this after an inadvertent visit to Strath Nethy in the Cairngorms. It’s not that I’d never been there. As a regular walker in the Cairngorms I had crossed the valley regularly, both at its foot on the standard route to Bynack More and halfway along when going between the north ridge of Cairn Gorm and Bynack Beg, which was my aim on this recent visit. I’d also often looked across the strath from the hills either side. It felt familiar.

It is many, many years since I walked the length of Strath Nethy and my memories of it were of a tedious, muddy, rocky path that went on and on with nothing of interest to see. Hence my lack of a desire to return. That I did so was due to the weather.

Bynack More in the mist

I’d set out from Coire na Ciste on a cloudy day with bits of drizzle, patches of blue sky, and the occasional shaft of sunshine. The forecast suggested it would be clearer later. I planned on a high camp between Bynack More and A’Choinneach. Crossing a notch not far from Stac na h-Iolaire on Cairn Gorm’s north ridge I looked across Strath Nethy to clouds shrouding those hills.

The clouds were still there when I reached the floor of the strath. A night in the mist didn’t appeal. I decided to camp down here and go up Bynack More in the morning if clear. If not, I’d walk up the strath to The Saddle, the col between A’Choinneach and Cairn Gorm and then across the north ridge of the latter and back down to Coire na Ciste.

Another view of camp

The night was quiet and peaceful, other than a helicopter passing low overhead late in the evening. (I learnt later that there’d been a search for a missing walker not far away – they were found ok). I woke a few times and looked out. Once there were a few stars. Otherwise the sky remained overcast. As it was at dawn. I didn’t hurry over breakfast, hoping it would clear. It didn’t. I’d go up to The Saddle. Just briefly the sun shone on Stac na h-Iolaire then it was gone.

A brief burst of sunshine on Stac na h-Iolaire

I was camped about half way along the strath, at the point where it begins to narrow and the steep slopes either side start to close in. (Strath is a misnomer – it means a wide valley and Strath Nethy is anything but that). It was about four kilometres to The Saddle, where I knew the views would be good if it was clear. I didn’t expect to enjoy the walk there.

Looking up to the north ridge of Cairn Gorm

The path was as rough, boggy, and awkward as I remembered it but how had I forgotten the rugged landscape all around, how had I forgotten that it would look different down here than from high above? Down here I was immersed in it and it was wonderful. This upper part of the strath is a complex mass of boulders and bogs, with the Garbh Allt – the rough stream - rushing through it. High above rock towers and pinnacles line the edge of the north ridge of Cairn Gorm. This is a joy to walk through, a rugged gateway into the mountains. Why did I not remember? I must have had an awful day here sometime in the distant past!

Strath Nethy

The path climbed gently but steadily. Near the top it feels as though you are almost in the mountain, hemmed in by steep slopes on either side. Ahead is a rocky peak with a small flat top. Then The Saddle is reached and the world opens up. Below me long Loch Avon stretched out to the great rock peaks round its head. This one of the grandest views in the Cairngorms and I now think Strath Nethy is the best way to reach it, so it appears suddenly as you emerge from the narrow closed-in valley. 

Loch Avon &, from the left, Stacan Dubha, Craig Etchachan, & the Shelter Stone Crag

The peak that appeared to lie at the head of the strath was now revealed as Stacan Dubha, a subsidiary summit of Beinn Mheadhoin on the far side of Loch Avon.

Another brief touch of sunshine, this time on Cnap Coire na Spreidhe

From The Saddle a rough path angles up the steep eastern slopes of Cairn Gorm to the bowl of Ciste Mhearad. As I headed up sunshine caught the top of Cnap Coire na Spreidhe, encouraging me on. It didn’t last and I emerged from Ciste Mhearad in thick mist. Having found Strath Nethy to be the opposite of my expectations I was content though. I felt I’d discovered a new part of the Cairngorms.