Bidein a' Ghlas Thuill, An Teallach
Last year I began an occasional series of trip reports
with the emphasis on the key gear used for The Great Outdoors. This is the third one, an early summer two-night trip to An Teallach. I've edited it slightly and updated
prices.
An Teallach is one of those mountains where the clouds seem to gather as soon as I approach it. In many visits over 40 years I had seen nothing. From other hills An Teallach shone in the sun from other hills but as soon as I came near it always disappeared. One of my ambitions was to climb the mountain, often rated as the finest in Scotland, when I could actually see it.
A good forecast gave me hope this summer and it did look promising as I walked up beside the rushing waters of the Allt Airdeasaidh late in the afternoon. The multiple summits of An Teallach stretched out ahead. I camped at the head of the glen where there was a breeze I hoped would keep off the midges and watched the summits sink into darkness and the clouds turn pink. I felt excited for the next day.
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| After sunset |
Then during the night I woke to find I was camped in mist. By morning it was even thicker. I was not pleased. Another day on An Teallach without views? I decided to move camp nearer the mountain and hope there would be a clearance. Up in Coire Mor an Teallaich I camped at 670 metres right under the summits and still in the mist. I sat outside the tent over a long lunch. Waiting.
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| The mists begin to clear |
At 3pm a touch of blue appeared high above. Then hazy peaks with mist swirling round them. I had my pack ready and was away within minutes. I climbed out of the cloud to hot sunshine, bright blue sky, and brilliant views. Everything below about 700 metres was hidden in a white blanket. Looking down I could see my tent appearing and disappearing as the mist. In the distance dark jagged peaks rose out of the cloud, silhouetted against the deep blue sky.
The full glory of the mountain was unveiled when I reached Bidein a’ Ghlas Thuill, the highest of An Teallach’s two Munros. Ahead lay the sharp peak of the second Munro, Sgurr Fiona, and the jagged pinnacles of the Corrag Bhuidhe. This is one of the most tremendous views in the Highlands. I stayed on the warm summit for nearly an hour, just absorbing the scene, before continuing to Sgurr Fiona. The reddish-brown sandstone rocks were warm in colour and warm to touch.
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| Goats |
There were no other people about but there were plenty of goats, clattering over the rocks and sunbathing on rock platforms. Their easy movement over the rough, steep ground made me feel clumsy and uncoordinated. One stood almost on the summit of Sgurr Fiona, gazing out over the mist. I decided not to disturb him and stopped not far below the top.
Back in camp the mist lapped the tent. The night was chilly and when I woke the summits were in cloud again. I didn’t mind. I’d had a glorious day on An Teallach. Now I just had a gentle meander back down.
PLANNING & PREPARATION
This was a summer trip with a forecast for calm sunny weather. However, I was venturing into wild country and planning on camping fairly high up so I didn’t feel I could cut my load by too much. Also, as I was intending to walk in and camp and then climb the hills with just a day load the overall weight wasn’t critical. If I’d been going to backpack over An Teallach I’d have wanted to really reduce the weight I carried and would probably have taken a lighter tent, sleeping bag, and mat.
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| First camp |
The forecast for hot weather suggested a sun hat and sunscreen would be a good idea plus ample water bottles, especially as I knew there was no water up on An Teallach. Calm weather meant midges would probably be a problem – they weren’t, I think it was too dry – so insect repellent, mosquito coils, and head net all went in the pack.
If the forecast was correct I wouldn’t need much in the way of clothing, except maybe in camp if it was chilly early and late. I reckoned a light insulating layer and a windshirt could deal with that. I did take lightweight waterproofs – the weather in the Highlands can change unexpectedly and anyway I just don’t feel happy without them.
EQUIPMENT
PACK
Sierra Designs Flex Capacitor 40-60L 1.23kg £175 ****1/2 Best Buy
TENT
The Anaris is a lightweight two-person tent. I could have taken something a bit lighter but I prefer roomy shelters and weight wasn’t critical. The Anaris is designed for just the conditions I was expecting too. With big mesh inner doors, porches on both sides, and a flysheet that doesn’t come right down to the ground it has excellent ventilation, making condensation less likely. As it was, the latter was minimal as it was so dry. At the same time I knew it would withstand wind and rain if the weather changed. It pitches with trekking poles, which did mean I wouldn’t have these for the walk up An Teallach. On rocky terrain poles can sometimes be a nuisance anyway and I reckoned I wouldn’t miss them. And I didn’t. Another bonus of the Anaris was the big porch doors which meant I could lie in the inner and look out at the mountains and the sky. As it stayed dry and there was never more than a light breeze I only closed the outer doors when I went up An Teallach.
SLEEPING BAG
Nemo Riff 30 930 grams £350
****1/2 Recommended
SLEEPING MAT
I enjoyed the comfort, which is really quite luxurious. I don’t yet know how warm it actually is though. I’ll find out in the winter. In the meantime, I can certainly recommend it for comfort. There are also mummy-shaped regular and short versions that weigh less. My first choice would be for one of these.
*The mat was returned to Nemo so I never did find out how warm it is.
CLOTHING
BAM Air Fitted Boxer & BAM Ramble T-shirt 175 grams (T-shirt) £18 & £29 ****1/2 Recommended
Likes stretchy, comfortable, hood
This lightweight mid-layer is designed for summer and was all I needed for warmth on this trip. In fact, I only wore it in camp early in the morning and late in the evening when it was a little chilly. I wouldn’t go without something like this though even in summer. The fabric is soft and comfortable and very stretchy. I like the hood which can be pulled up quickly for extra warmth and the pockets which sit high enough to be used when wearing a hipbelt. The sleeves are long – I can pull the cuffs over my hands. I’ll be wearing this in cooler weather under a wind or waterproof and I expect it to perform very well.
Likes lightweight, recycled fabric
The fabric has a slick feel and is quite comfortable. It’s not that breathable though. On the short and not that strenuous walk between my two camps I did get a fair amount of condensation inside. This did dry quickly once I stopped. Picture Organic gives it 5/10 for breathability and 5/10 for waterproofness. As I always carry a fully waterproof top anyway, I’d rather have less waterproofing and better breathability. For short strolls where a shower is possible, and you don’t want to carry a waterproof the Wailer should be fine. I wouldn’t rely on it alone in the hills though.
The Wailer is quite light but has fairly hefty water-resistant zips. I think much lighter more flexible zips would be better given that it isn’t fully waterproof. I like the big map-size pouch pocket. The garment can be stuffed into this for packing. The cuffs don’t allow any ventilation but are stretchy enough for the sleeves to be pushed up if necessary. The hood is quite-close fitting and stays on in a breeze.
Hello Chris,Thank you for your latest update on the kit that you were testing on a fantastic mountain.The price ticket on most of the items are quite off putting but that is just my budget talking.When I used to be in the outdoors i always used the Hilleberg Akto,now that was an item with a big ticket on it,but it was easily the best piece of kit i ever bought,and it served me well,in any weather conditions,for many years.I am very pleased that eventually you got to the tops the forge and had an hour on top.Excellent article,Thank you.
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