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Camp |
Recent days have seen the first continuous period of dry sunny
weather this year. Just the time for a high camp in the Cairngorms. The
mountains are still snow covered high up and the clear nights frosty so there’s
not much of a thaw going on.
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Stob Coire an t-Sneachda
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With the general idea of camping somewhere on the Plateau between
Cairn Gorm and Ben Macdui I set off up the Fiacaill a’ Choire Chais with a big
pack. As well as my camping gear I had snowshoes, ice axe, crampons, and snow
shovel. I would have to climb a fair way before I’d need any of them, there
only being small patches of snow on the lower part of the ridge. The sun was
hot and I was in shirt sleeves and quickly sweating. The snow- plastered cliffs
of Stob Coire an t-Sneachda looked splendid up ahead, reminding me why I was
lugging this heavy load.
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Stob Coire an t-Sneachda
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As I reached the final steepening of the ridge there were
more and bigger snow patches, hard icy snow patches. Time for crampons. Once
these steel spikes were underfoot my confidence soared and the climb to the big
cairn marking the top of the ridge and the edge of the Cairngorm Plateau was
soon reached. A cold breeze saw a jacket and hat come on, though I still didn’t
need gloves.
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Cairn Toul & Sgor an Lochan Uaine
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I gazed out on a white world. There weren’t snowfields.
There was just snow, stretching across to distant Ben Macdui. Only on Stob
Coire an t-Sneachda did rocks protrude through the snow. Cornices overhung the
cliffs, catching the late light. I crossed the summit and there, beyond the
hidden gash of the Lairig Ghru pass, shone Cairn Toul and Sgor an Lochain
Uaine, with the sky colouring with the dusk behind them. The snow was hard and icy,
and I kept the crampons on for the rest of the day.
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Loch Avon
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I wandered down Coire Domhain, past the snowholes that are dug
here every winter, considered camping, then deciding there was enough light to
go on I contoured round to the broad shallow recess of the Feith Buidhe, the
stream hidden under the snow. I ambled about for a while, gazing down to shadowed
Loch Avon stretching out far below and admiring the great cliffs of Hell’s Lum,
the Shelterstone Crag and Carn Etchachan. This is a great place to be.
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Camp |
A flat area gave some shelter from the strengthening wind,
which was not forecast. The snow was rock hard and once forced in the tent pegs
seemed solidly set. I suspected I might need to ice axe to prise them out in the
morning. I dug a pile of icy chunks to melt for water and settled down to a supper
of instant soup followed by almost-instant noodles.
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Snow melting
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Late in the evening the wind shifted and started to buffet
the tent from the side, though not enough to cause concern. When I switched off
my headlamp and pulled the sleeping bag shut the temperature was -1.9°C.
How low would it go? The bag was rated to -7 and I had warm clothing. I didn’t expect
to be cold.
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The tent and the wind
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I certainly didn’t expect to be too warm, but I was when the noise
of the tent flapping woke me. It was three o’clock. The temperature was +1.7. The
snow was softening and a peg had pulled out, leaving a corner of the tent
flapping. I pushed it back in and fell back to sleep, leaving the hood of the
sleeping bag open. At five the peg was out again, the flapping louder. Two more
pegs had risen up out of the snow. I managed to get them back in, though I didn’t
think they’d stay for long. The tent seemed secure anyway, despite being a
lightweight model designed more for good ventilation on hot summer nights then
snow camping in the Cairngorms.
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Clouds |
Dawn came with more tent flapping and a hazy light with many
clouds in the sky. I had a pre-breakfast stroll to look at the landscape again
then returned to the tent, a tiny green blob in the vast whiteness, for coffee
and muesli porridge.
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Tracks |
The snow was much softer now so I set off with the snowshoes
rather than crampons. The thin sunshine and drifting clouds gave an ethereal
feel to the landscape. Nothing was quite solid, quite real.
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Braeriach |
Others were about. Three skiers climbing steadily towards Ben
Macdui. A few walkers heading the same way. I had thought of doing do myself but
feeling weary from the broken night’s sleep and aware of my heavy load I
decided to head for Cairn Lochan instead. It is a favourite anyway, a mountain
of contrasts.
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Walker |
Long featureless snow slopes led steadily up to the summit cairn
right on the edge of the cliffs high above Coire an Lochain, a sudden dramatic
viewpoint, especially on this day with snow filling the gullies below cornices.
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Cairn Lochan
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My return took me back over Stob Coire an t-Sneachda and back down
the Fiacaill a’ Choire Chais, with the snowshoes swapped for crampons at the
top of the latter. A grand trip.
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Carn Etchachan & Derry Cairngorm
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