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Winter sunset over Braeriach from the Cairngorm Plateau
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Coming down from our walk inthe Fannaichs two weeks ago Alex Roddie and I needed our head lamps for the
last few kilometres, the first time I’d used one for walking since early spring. Now
the equinox is past the nights are drawing in quickly. Sunset in the Cairngorms
is now 7pm. I carry a tiny headlamp right through the summer just in case but
very rarely use it. For the next six months I’ll carry a more powerful one and
expect to use it quite often (and have a spare in the pack).
Having a good head
lamp gives more freedom as you can start or finish walks in the dark and is
also important for safety in case you’re out longer than planned. Every autumn
people without head lamps or torches are rescued because they’re caught out in
the dark. A good headlamp is the first item I add to my pack as the nights grow
longer (soon followed by gloves, hats, and extra warm clothing).
Here’s a revised piece on
headlamps I wrote for The Great Outdoors a few years ago:
Head lamps are becoming more powerful every
year and that power is often the feature flagged up in promotions. Some models
are extremely bright, up to 900 lumens, and can throw a beam 200 metres. But how
much power do you actually need? From my testing of quite a few head lamps in
recent years I think 300 lumens and a beam that goes 75-100 metres is fine for
hillwalking. Indeed, much of the time even that much brightness isn’t needed. To
save battery life it’s best not to use full brightness unless absolutely
necessary.
Other factors need considering when choosing a
head torch, not just power. Battery life, battery type, ease of use, variable
lighting, size, and weight are all important.
Battery life depends in part on the type of
battery and the weather. Companies, unsurprisingly, give the figures from the
longest lasting battery in warm temperatures. Lithium batteries usually last
longest, followed by alkalines, and then NIMH rechargeables. Built-in
rechargeable batteries tend to have long life but must be recharged from a
power bank or the mains. This can take a long time and not something to do when
out on a walk, except overnight in camp. Being able to change the batteries is
an asset. Even better is to have two head torches so you can just swap them
over if one fades. I still carry spare batteries and/or a power bank though.
Head torches should be easy to use. Coming off
the hill on a dark night in the rain feeling weary is not the time to try and
remember a series of button presses in order to switch from spot to flood or
increase or decrease brightness.
Having spot and flood beams does make a
difference. The first can be used to light the route far ahead, the second to
see what’s around you or light up a tent. I like low-tech mechanical means of
varying between the two, just twisting the lamp housing is easier than
remembering button presses. The latest technology involves lighting that
automatically adjust brightness and beam spread according to where and what you’re
looking at. This works well but can be a little startling when you quickly
raise and lower your head and the light changes abruptly.
FEATURES
Batteries
AAA or AA are the most common size batteries
for headlamps. Alkaline batteries are standard, and many headlamps come with
these. NIMH rechargeable batteries are the most economic and the most
environmentally friendly. Lithium batteries last longer, especially in the
cold, and weigh less though they are more expensive. However not all headlamps
can use these. Check if the manufacturer says they are ok. Some headlamps come
with rechargeable batteries. These may be removable so ordinary batteries can
be used if necessary or else fixed in place with USB connections for recharging.
Ease of Use
Buttons and switches should be easy to operate
when wearing gloves but should not be easy to switch on accidentally. Some
headlamps have locking devices to ensure the latter can’t happen. The modes
sequence should be easy to remember. Changing batteries in the dark and with
cold fingers should be simple to do.
Headbands
Head straps need to be soft, comfortable, and
easily adjustable. They should fit over a hood or hat.
Pivoting
Lamp
The lamp housing should pivot easily so the
beam can be directed.
Usable Light
LEDs will continue to glow feebly if there’s a
smidgeon of energy left in the batteries. This isn’t much use. Companies’
maximum times are often those at which the light is just strong enough to be
useful. Changing or charging the batteries before this stage is reached is a
good idea.
Light Levels
All bar the simplest headlamps have different
light levels so you can have a very bright light for night hiking or
identifying distant objects and less bright lights for close-up use and longer
battery life.
Beam
Beams can be flood or spot. The first is
useful for lighting an area such as a campsite or tent, the second is useful
for throwing the light the farthest distance and pinpointing a distant object.
Many headlamps have both flood and spot beams. The distance a beam shines is
determined by the power of the LED and the batteries. With regulated headlamps
there is a constant flow of electricity to the LEDs and after an initial
decline the light will maintain the same brightness for a set amount of time and
then decline again rapidly. With non-regulated headlamps the brightness
declines quickly at first and then more slowly throughout the life of the
batteries.
