Into The Storm: A Wet Cairngorms Trip

Above Loch Avon

The forecast wasn't good but it wasn't bad either. Strong winds looked to be the worst aspect. With a friend visiting an overnight camp beckoned. High up seemed inadvisable but we did want somewhere with a feel of wildness and mountain grandeur. The basin at the head of Loch Avon below the great cliffs of Carn Etchachan, Shelter Stone Crag, Hell's Lum and Stag Rocks with the waterfalls of the Feith Buidhe and the Garbh Uisge Mor crashing down between them seemed suitable so we clinbed to the Cairngorm Plateau and then dropped down Coire Raibert to Loch Avon. There was a cold wind but it wasn't that strong and a cloudy sky but without rain.

First view of Loch Avon

Once past the head of the loch we found a dry pitch in the partial shelter of some boulders. The Shelter Stone lay not far above. In a big storm this is a welcome refuge but it is dark and damp inside and generally I prefer to camp. The evening was cold and breezy with occasional glimpses of blue sky and brief shafts of late sunshine. I wandered up to the Shelter Stone and gazed down at our little camp.

Camp below the Shelter Stone Crag

Looking down on our camp

The wind was chilly however and we were soon making hot food and drinks in our tents. The temperature was 10C, rather cool for late June.

The rain began at 4.30 a.m.. Or so Graham told me. I was fast asleep, waking two hours later to look out at grey wet air, falling rain and Graham's wet tent. We were camped in the cloud. The temperature was 6C.

Rain and mist the only view

The rain was to keep up all day and into the evening, one of the wettest days in a wet month. Coming from the north-east the rain was cold too, driven by a strengthening wind. Clad in waterproofs, fleece jackets, hats and gloves we climbed the stony path up into Coire Domhain, admiring the waterfalls and the rushing stream. All else was lost in the mist.

Blasted by the wind we traversed Stob Coire an t-Sneachda, the only peak of the trip, and then went north to the Fiacaill a'Choire Chais. The air was bitter now and the icy rain stung our faces. The cold wet weather continued throughout our descent. As did the mist, all the way to the Coire Cas car park. We saw no-one on the hills all day, which is really unusual for this accessible area even in stormy weather.  Damp and chilled we drove down out of the mist, the car heater on full, and were soon esconsed in a cafe with hot food and coffee, steaming gently and staring out at the rain bouncing off the pavement and people struggling with umbrellas in the wind. It had been a short trip but the weather had made it an intense one.

The Great Outdoors July issue: two-person tents, camping kit, Inov8 boots

The July issue of The Great Outdoors has just been published. I review ten two-person tents (see pictures below), look at wild camping kit, and test the Inov8 Roclite 325 boots. Also in the gear section Judy Armstrong reviews six sleeping mats and Will Renwick looks at three sleeping bags at different price points. In the Hill Skills section Huw Oliver of Glenmore Lodge looks at bikepacking and packrafting and there are interviews with packrafters. In Hill Walk & Shop Talk David Lintern visits the excellent Braemar Mountain Sports and goes for a walk up Creag Choinnich with shop manager Peter Laurence. Finally in gear Outdoor Gear Coach looks at the history and development of waterproof fabrics.

Roger Smith has several items in this issue: on the early nineteenth century hillwalker Ellen Weeton; an obituary of the late Walt Unsworth, founder of Cicerone Press, mountaineer, and writer; a look at his favourite hill names; and a comment piece on a threat to Welsh National Parks.

Elsewhere there's a round-up of information on this year's TGO Challenge (youngest person 19, oldest 77!); and an interview with Hugh Thomson whose new book describes his walk on Wainright's Coast-to-Coast with a pack mule.

Following David Lintern's piece in the previous issue on testing the camping byelaws in Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park there's a response from the park's Chief Executive Gordon Watson. I'll be interested to see the comments on this!

Hill stories in this issue are spread across the British Isles. In Mountain Portraits Jim Perrin describes Snowdon, a hill he has climbed more than any other. Far north of Wales Alan Rowan enjoys the magnificent Coigach Round in the North-West Highlands while down in England Jon Sparks walks the limestone ridges of the South-East Lake District. Across the Irish Sea Brian McCready shows the beauty of the Mountains of Mourne in a photo-essay. On the Isle of Skye Fiona Russell tackles the formidable Inaccessible Pinnacle on the Cuillin Ridge. Ed Byrne is down in Yorkshire, counting bees on the Blacka Moor nature reserve outside Sheffield.

The pictures below show some the tents reviewed in this issue on test in the Cairngorms and on Creag Meagaidh.

A Lightweight Approach To Big Hills

A year ago I went on a backpacking trip in the Cairngorms, which I described in this post. As part of the reason for the trip was to test some ultralight gear I made the whole trip a lightweight one and wrote a feature about it for last September's The Great Outdoors entitled A Lightweight Approach To Big Hills. Here it is complete with rather wonky-looking gear list.

Ultralight backpacking is often portrayed as risky and masochistic, as heading into the wilds with barely enough gear to survive and certainly not enough to be comfortable. It doesn’t have to be like that. I don’t go into the hills to practice ‘surviving’ or to suffer. I go to enjoy myself. But part of that enjoyment is having as light a load as possible. How light depends on the time of year and the destination. The key factors for combining comfort and safety with a light load are the right gear for the time and place and the skills to use that gear in the severest conditions that could occur.

Whilst equipment testing means I’m often carrying gear that is heavier than is strictly necessary I always try and keep the weight down. An opportunity to really do that came in June when Peter Elliott of PHD suggested a trip to try out some new ultralight down items. That was an ideal chance to really see how light I could get my load for a two-night, three-day trip in the Cairngorms. The forecast was for cooler than average temperatures with highs around 15°C and lows of 4°C plus a brisk westerly wind, frequent showers and little chance of sunshine. Good conditions in fact for seeing just how an ultralight setup performed.

What weight constitutes ‘ultralight’ or ‘lightweight’ though? I don’t think you can or should put a figure on it. Aiming for a target weight could mean omitting something essential or taking something too light for the conditions just to achieve it. Take the lightest items that will do what’s needed and that fits the definition in my opinion. I also think there’s a difference between the weight of essential gear and any optional extras such as reading matter, cameras and other non-backpacking items. Reduce the weight of essentials and you can carry more of the extras! I can’t imagine going without camera gear, notebook and e-reader or paperback under any circumstances. 

So to keep the weight of a backpacking load low the weight of essential items is the key, especially the weight of the big items – pack, shelter, sleeping bag, sleeping mat. For this trip I looked at the lightest gear suitable for summer backpacking in the Cairngorms with high level camps. 

I ended up with a total weight of 9.65kg, of which 6.7kg were essentials. Around 3kg of non-essentials may seem excessive but 2kg of that was camera gear, not essential for backpacking but essential for my work. Subtracting items worn or carried (footwear, clothing, poles, cameras) the weight of my pack came to 5.9kg, to which I added 1.5kg of food so it was 7.4kg at the start. Everything performed well and I had a comfortable trip. Heavier gear wouldn’t have added anything except more weight to carry.

Pack

With such a light load a pack with a frame and thickly padded back, shoulder straps and hipbelt was unnecessary. The Mountain Laurel Designs Exodus is a 535 gram ultralight pack made from tough Dyneema fabric. It has useful stretch outside pockets and a total capacity of 57 litres – more than enough for this trip as I didn’t fill it. It’s designed for loads up to 11kg so I was nowhere near pushing its limits. The Exodus doesn’t have any padding in the back so I used the OMM thin foam DuoMat for this. The trip involved much rough pathless terrain and quite a bit of ascent and descent. The Exodus was stable and comfortable throughout.

Shelter

Much as I like tarps they’re not a good choice in midge season even with a netting inner. I like a tent so I can zip it shut and cook in the porch if necessary. I also like enough room for comfort if trapped inside by midges or storms. One of the lightest suitable tents for this is the Nordisk Telemark 2 ULW, which weighs less than a kilo (with better pegs than those provided and extra guylines the weight was 994 grams) yet is spacious for one (it’s designed to sleep two though that would be a tight sqeeze). The Telemark 2 is also surprisingly storm resistant. It easily stood up to heavy rain on both nights and strong winds on the second one. 

Sleep System

The PHD gear I was testing consisted of ultralight clothing and sleeping bag designed to be used together. I usually take a sleeping bag adequate for the average temperatures expected, reckoning on sleeping in clothes on any unusually chilly nights. That’s mainly because I’ve never found much clothing other than base layers to be that comfortable to sleep in due to stiff fabrics, zips, buttons, buckles, pockets and other features. However for this trip I used the PHD Ultra K down bag, which has a lower temperature rating of +8°C, plus the ultralight Wafer K series down jacket, trousers and socks. The clothing has minimal features and the fabrics are very soft so it’s comfortable to sleep in. The first night the temperature fell to +7°C in the tent and I was just warm enough in the sleeping bag alone. I did wake a few times feeling a touch chilly though so the second night I slept in the down socks, trousers and jacket. The temperature fell to +6 and I was very warm and cosy, not waking once. I was also very comfortable and it was nice to be able to emerge from the sleeping bag and not be hit by cold air (though that does wake you up!). PHD says that the Ultra K bag plus Wafer clothing should be warm enough down to +3°. I reckon it would keep me warm a few degrees lower. The total weight of sleeping bag and clothing was only 775 grams.

For comfort as much as warmth I slept on the shortest NeoAir XLite air bed, which weighs just 230 grams. This ironed out stony and rough ground and made for a more comfortable night’s sleep. Because it’s so short I put the 135 gram OMM thin foam DuoMat under my feet. The DuoMat also made a good sitmat and back padding for my pack.

 

Kitchen

Even in summer hot food and drink can be welcome in the British climate. A warm meal before a cool night and a hot mug of tea or coffee first thing on a rainy morning can be very restorative. So I always carry a stove. For this trip I chose a tiny 70 gram Primus Express TI gas stove. As it was only a two-night trip I knew the smallest cartridge, the 100 size, would provide enough fuel. There was just a little left at the end of the trip, maybe enough to boil a mug of water. As gas stoves don’t work well in the wind I also took a light foil windscreen. My pots were my 25 year old 900ml Evernew and 700ml MSR titanium ones – combined weight 220 grams. The smaller pot doubled as a mug. Other utensils – spoons, dish cloth, lighters – weighed 97 grams and I had three water bottles totalling 199 grams. The bottles had a combined capacity of 2.7 litres, enough for the whole time in camp, which meant I didn’t have to don shell clothing and footwear to go and collect water when it was raining.

Footwear & Clothing

If there’s one item that should come top of the list when cutting weight it’s footwear. The old adage a pound on the feet equals five in the pack has been proven true in studies. Long ago I discovered it for myself when I found that I was more comfortable carrying my heavy boots in my pack than carrying them (I walked in running shoes brought for camp and town wear). I haven’t worn boots, even light ones, on a long walk for many years. On this trip I wore the 702 gram Altra Lone Peak 2.0 running shoes that I’d worn on the TGO Challenge in May as I knew that they were comfortable and fine on rough terrain. They were wet much of the time, due to the rain and sodden ground, but that didn’t bother me as my feet stayed warm and comfortable in Darn Tough wool-rich socks. 

My clothing was light, comfortable, fast wicking and fast drying. As the weather was mostly breezy I wore the 168 gram Arc’teryx Squamish Hoody windproof jacket over a 165 gram Rab MeCo long-sleeved base layer much of the time. Salomon Wayfayrer stretch nylon pants (292 grams) kept my legs warm and dried quickly in showers. It wasn’t a trip for shorts. A few times when the wind was strong and cold I walked in the 224 gram Berghaus Hypertherm Hoody insulated jacket, which I took instead of a thin fleece as it’s warmer, windproof and weighs no more. Most of the rain fell when we were in camp but there were occasional showers during the second day during which I wore the Berghaus Hyper Hydroshell jacket, a minimalist waterproof jacket that weighs just 98 grams and which kept the rain out and didn’t get very damp inside. I also took an old pair of GoLite waterproof overtrousers as they’re still the lightest I have at 110 grams, though I never wore them.

For camp I had the PHD down Wafer K series garments, which kept me very warm in and out of the tent. At 246 grams for the jacket, 151 grams for the trousers, and 50 grams for the socks they are astonishingly light for the warmth. 

Accessories

Other essential items – headlamp (tiny Petzl e-lite), sunscreen, insect repellent, first aid kit etc - totalled 1 kg. I could probably have cut this down a little by paring away at the contents of the first aid, repair and wash kits but frankly I didn’t think the couple of hundred grams I might have saved was worth the time spent doing so – I know some ultralighters will be horrified by this! They’d probably also be horrified at my 535 gram Pacerpoles, the only items I carried that couldn’t be described as lightweight never mind ultralight. I find them so comfortable and efficient I never leave them behind however.

Complete Gear List

Pack:        Mountain Laurel Designs Exodus    535g

Shelter:      Nordisk Telemark 2 ULW               994g

Sleeping Bag: PHD Minimus Ultra K Series     328g

Insulation:   Therm-A-Rest NeoAir XLite S/OMM DuoMat     230g & 135g

Kitchen :     Primus Express Ti/foil windscreen   70g & 53g

       :      Primus PowerGas 100g cartridge       198g

        :     Evernew 0.9l titanium pan                  137g

        :     MSR Titan 0.6 litre titanium pan          83g

        :     Outdoors Grub long plastic spoon       16g

        :    MSR titanium spoon                           15g

        :     dishcloth                                            22g

        :     Light My Fire Swedish FireSteel 2.0     28g      

       :      Clipper butane lighter                          16g            

        :     GoLite 700ml water bottle                    79g       

        :     2x Platypus 2 litre bottles                   120g

Footwear:     Altra Lone Peak 2.0                     702g

Clothing:     Darn Tough Micro Crew Hike/Trek Socks 38g

        :     Salomon Wayfayrer Pants                   292g

        :    Berghaus Tech Base Boxer Shorts         65g

        :     Rab MeCo 120 Long Sleeve T              165g

        :    Arc’teryx Squamish Hoody windproof jacket 168g

        :     Berghaus Vapourlight Hypertherm Hoody   224g

        :    PHD Wafer Down Jacket with Hood K Series   246g   + 12g stuffsack

        :    PHD Wafer Down Trousers K Series   151g + 12g stuffsack

        :    PHD Wafer Down Socks K Series         50g + 12g stuffsack

        :    Berghaus Hyper Hydroshell waterproof jacket   98g

        :    GoLite Reed overtrousers                    110g

        :     Insect Shield Buff                                39g

        :     Terra Nova Polartec Beanie                   25g

Accessories:  Carbon Pacer poles                     535g

        :     Petzl Tikka e+Lite                                26g

        :     Silva Ranger compass                          34g     

       :      Harvey Ultra XT40 Cairn Gorm & Ben Avon map  24g  

        :     Fox 40 Classic whistle                         13g     

        :     Notebook & pens in Aloksak              175g     

        :     Reading glasses & case                      81g

        :     LifeSystems Light & Dry Pro First Aid Kit    150g

        :     Repair Kit                                          50g

        :     Samsung Galaxy S7 smartphone      161g                  

        :     Suunto Ambit watch                           79g

        :     Kestrel 4500 Weather Station           102g

        :     Classic Swiss Army Knife                 21g

        :     Care Plus Anti-Insect Roll-On            73g

        :     NetSpex head net                              50g

        :     Wash kit/toilet paper                       174g

        :     Sunscreen                                          60g

        :     Salomon Fury dark glasses & case  120g

        :    Kindle in Aquapac bag                     263g

Cameras :     Sony NEX 7 & 16-50mm lens   489g

        :     Sony NEX 6 & 10-18mm lens         639g

        :    ThinkTank Mirrorless Mover 5 bag    192g

        :    ThinkTank Mirrorless Mover 10 ba    253g

        :     Memory cards, batteries & filters    136g

        :     Velbon V-Pod tripod                       280g

Snow & Spate on the Pacific Crest Trail

Larry Lake crossing McCabe Creek

This year deep late snow has made the Pacific Crest Trail very hazardous from the High Sierra northwards with many hikers getting into difficulties - see this piece in Outside magazine. Stories from the trail remind me of my own PCT thru'-hike in similar conditions back in 1982.  That year the mountains were also snowbound late into the hiking season. I teamed up with three other hikers for the traverse of the High Sierra, during which we rarely saw the trail, and needed the ice axes, crampons and snowshoes/skis we were carrying every day. Going without these and the skill to use them would have been very foolish.

In the High Sierra

Some of the passes proved difficult and somewhat scary to cross, especially steep Forester Pass, the highest on the PCT. Fearful of avalanches we climbed to the passes early in the day when the snow was still hard, then tried to reach the base of the next pass before the snow became too soft even for snowshoes and skis.

High on the ascent of Forester Pass

Even more scary than the steep snow slopes were the creek fords in the Yosemite Wilderness as the snow began to melt. Over a five day period we crossed many raging torrents, sometimes crawling across spiky logs inches above the crashing water, sometimes wading and barely keeping our feet, sometimes using a rope.

Fording Tilden Creek

The traverse of the High Sierra remains one of the high points of my life. I hope those hikers there now have as an exciting and inspiring time and that they all make it through safely.

You can read more about my trip and see more pictures in my book Rattlesnakes and Bald Eagles: Hiking the Pacific Crest Trail.

John Muir Trust takes on Helvellyn

Helvellyn

After much discussion and deliberation the John Muir Trust has taken on the management of the Glenridding Common estate in the Lake District. This runs from Sticks Pass in the north to Striding Edge in the south and includes the summit and east side of Helvellyn plus Catstycam, Red Tarn, Birkhouse Moor, and Glenridding Beck.

Catstycam

The opportunity for the JMT to do this first arose in 2014 when the Lake District National Park (LDNP) said it wished to review the areas it owned. Last August a group of JMT Trustees (of which I am one) and Staff walked the estate to gain a view of the area and think about what the JMT could offer in terms of management. We decided this was something the JMT should do.

JMT Trustees and Staff climbing up to Sticks Pass

The LDNP undertook a public consultation before deciding to lease the estate to the JMT for three years. Richard Leafe, Chief Executive of the LDNP, said "we look forward to seeing how the Trust’s management will enhance and improve the environmental quality of this land". Andrew Bachell, Chief Executive of the John Muir Trust, said: “we’re looking forward to finalising the details of a lease and then having further conversations with local people and organisations to agree a management plan that will enhance and benefit the local area. We take the responsibility of managing this special landscape and respecting its cultural traditions seriously and feel delighted and privileged to have been given the opportunity to do so.” You can read the full statement from the JMT here.

I think this is an exciting move by the JMT - one I have supported strongly in Trustee meetings - and I'm looking forward to the next three years with great interest and hope. This is the JMT's first land management venture outside of Scotland and I think it could be really significant.

Back home from the OutDoor Trade Show, Friedrichshafen

Three days at the OutDoor Industry Trade Show in Friedrichshafen. Interesting new gear. Sore feet. Hot and humid. Too much artificial bright light. Conversations with friends and colleagues. Overall an enjoyable if tiring time. For the first time I tracked the mileage I covered tramping round the vast halls. It averaged 11 miles a day! Add on the 3 mile round trip to and from my lodging and that's 14 miles a day, virtually all on hard concrete and tarmac.

During the show I posted pictures and short comments on the gear I saw. You can find these on my Instagram, Twitter and Facebook feeds. I also wrote daily summaries for the The Great Outdoors which you can find on the TGO website.

As well as the gear stands there are talks and presentations. I attended one from the excellent European Outdoor Conservation Association about the various projects its members fund.

I also attended the OutDoor Industry Awards presentation, for which I was one of the judges. You can see all the winners here.

The Outdoor Blogger Network had their own area at the show and OutDoor clearly regards it as having increasing importance. I was invited to their anniversary celebration and it was good to meet people I'd only had internet contact with or had only met briefly previously, especially Hendrik Morkel and Carsten Jost. I was also delighted and surprised to meet Glen van Peski of Gossamer Gear. Whilst the show is about looking at gear it's the people who really make it worthwhile.