View across Strathspey to the Cairngorms |
Geal-charn Mor, the big white hill, has been living up to
its name in recent days, but then, so have all the other hills in the Highlands
as there is snow from the glens to the summits and temperatures have stayed
below freezing. This is a good hill for
a half-day trip if, as I was, you’re in Aviemore with an afternoon free. Not
setting off until two hours before sunset I knew I’d be descending in the dark
but with a good track to follow this would be easy.
Near the top of the woods. |
Geal-charn Mor lies at the south-eastern end of the Monadh
Liath in the region known as the Kinveachy Forest. At 824 metres high it’s a
Corbett – a Scottish hill between 762 and 914.4 metres (the unusual range
stemming from the old measurements when the list was compiled – hills between
2,500 and 3,000 feet). It’s not a very distinctive hill itself but the views
across Strathspey to the Cairngorms and west over the Monadh Liath are superb. I
think it’s at its best under snow when it has an arctic tundra-like feel.
Light & Shade |
An off-road vehicle track known as the Burma Road cuts
across the eastern shoulder of the hill and this was my route for the day. It
was completely snow-covered but a tracked vehicle had been along it, leaving
packed ruts that made walking fairly easy. The woods were silent and dark but
above the sky was blue and as they thinned out the views opened up with the
Cairngorms shining in the cold sunlight.
I was carrying snowshoes but didn’t initially put them on. A
couple coming down told me the snow was deep in places and they didn’t think
they’d have got far without the vehicle tracks. For me those tracks were actually
making the ascent more difficult, as I discovered when I eventually stopped and
put my snowshoes on and found that even in the ruts they made progress much
easier. I kept them on for the rest of the ascent and all the way back to the
car.
The Monadh Liath are mostly gentle, rounded hills without
the mountainous terrain of the Cairngorms. Even so care is needed when they are
snow-covered. Across the Allt Dubh glen I could see a cornice along the steep
north face of shadowed Creag Ghleannain with many little snow slides below it. A
ski track cut right across the slope.
Creag Ghleannain |
Higher up the snow was wind-blown, filling hollows and
creating deep drifts. At the high point of the track I left it for the slopes
leading to the summit. Here the wind had scoured the snow, leaving the crest of
the broad ridge almost snow-free and with many stones and grasses visible. I
kept to the south side, where the snow had drifted, but still had to cross many
bare areas. The snowshoes had an advantage here as I didn’t need to remove
them. I’d have been carrying skis.
Hints of Colour |
I’d hoped for a colourful sunset and there were hints of one
long before I reached the summit cairn. However there was thick cloud in the
west that I couldn’t see and the sun soon vanished into this. I reached the top
with a stark cold colourless landscape stretching out all around and a chill
wind sweeping over it. I didn’t linger and was soon following my tracks back to
the Burma Road and the shelter of the woods.
The summit of Geal-charn Mor |
Thanks for this - really enjoying your blogs
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